BigBore Blog

Arriving home and reflecting on our adventure, it has been a wonderful experience.  Whilst it has been very demanding it has been extremely rewarding.  In total we cross 12 deserts (see below), 2 more that what we had hoped but 2 less than what we had planned. We would thank everyone for their support and donations especially our partners.
Sturt Stony Desert: 29,750 km2

Tirari Desert (South Australia): 15,250 km2

Strzelecki Desert: 80,250 km2

Simpson Desert: 176,500 km2

Tanami Desert: 184,500 km2

Central Desert (Around Alice Springs)

Great Sandy Desert: 284,993 km2

Gibson Desert: 156,000 km2

Little Sandy Desert: 111,500 km2

The Nullarbor Plain or “Nullarbor Desert”

Painted Desert (South Australia)

Pedirka Desert (South Australia)

We have finally arrived back home on the Sunshine. I have a number of photos to upload over the next couple of days. All in all we crossed 12 deserts and unfortunately missed the Great Victorian and Moon Deserts due to road closures.

From Coober Pedy we headed North East to Oodnadatta in so as to transverse the Oodnadatta track and in doing so cross the Painted & Pedirka Deserts. Our plan from there was to cut across the Mount Dare and cross the Rig Line through the southern part of the Simpson Desert. Again we hit a road block as the recent rains that closed the Birdsville races and closed all the roads to Mount Dare and the Rig Line.
This forced us to travel south down the Oodnadatta track to Marree before heading back to Birdsville via the Birdsville Track. Compared with our crossing of the Birdsville Track at the start of the journey, the track was a challenge with numerous water crossing and mud holes.

After a couple of days in Birdsville to regroup and have dinner with  our friends in Birdsville who had helped us, it was time to complete the 2000 kms of tar back home.

We would like to thank all the people who have helped us along the way especially the wonderful locals in Birdsville including Barnsey, Bronwyn, Lyn, Kenny, Cheryl, Carly, Adrian and Dusty.

From Ceduna the trip dramatically improved as we were now able to tackle the Googs track just north of Ceduna.  Goog’s Track is a single track that traverses through Yumbarra Conservation Park and Yellabinna Regional Reserve. The trek covers in excess of 300 sand dunes across some 350 kms.

The Googs track is wonderful and it is often described as a mini Simpson Desert or Canning Stock Route.

The ride was wonderful and challenging over a few days and brought us out at Tarcoola a remote ghost town on the Trans Australia Railway.  This town was eerie experience as it looked like people had just vanished leaving behind houses, cars and furniture. The school still had time tables on the walls and spelling words on the black board (see the photos under googs track).

From Tarcoola, rather than heading along a 300 km tar section to Coober Pedy, we opted to follow an relativity unused railway dirt service road all the way to Coober Pedy.

The way home from Margaret River proved quite challenging, not due to the riding condition but due to what tracks and deserts were open due to rain.

From Margaret River we hugged coastal roads until Esperance. The riding was extremely cold, wet and windy.  After a ride along the coast surrounding Esperance our plan was to access the beach via a 40km ride along a dirt road that leads to Israelite Bay. From Israelite Bay the plan was to cross some 450kms of beach, sand dunes and headland crossing to Cocklebiddy.

Unfortunately we were stumped before we commenced as the past few days before we arrived saw several inches of rain close all the dirt/clay roads accessing the beach.  The local authorities believed these roads could be closed for up to several weeks.

This left us with no other option than complete an inland road ride to Cocklebiddy.

Our next plan was to cut up to the Trans Australia Railway and follow the service road across the Great Victorian Desert to Coober Pedy.  This route was also not viable as the service road was closed from Cook to Lyons (just short of Coober Pedy).

Instead we forced to complete an 800 kms tar section across the Nullarbor from Cocklebiddy to Ceduna in South Australia. This was by far the most monotonous and mind numbing part of the trip.   This coupled with extremely heavy rain and gusty winds made this section almost untenable.

After 10 days in Margaret River we have now moved onto our next stage ie – section 9- Margaret River to Israelite Bay to Cockelbiddy Roadhouse. During this 1700km section we will hug the southern coastline from Denmark through to Cockelbiddy.

We rode down the Denmark yesterday which is some 400kms from Margaret River. Unlike the deserts we have been crossing the ride was cold, wet and breezy.  What made up for this was the magnificent forests, tree lined roads, undulating hills and windy roads.

With the completion of the Canning Stock Route we have now crossed 9 deserts. The latest 3 deserts being the Great Sandy Desert, Little Sandy Desert and Gibson Desert.  The Canning Stock Route has definitely been the most challenging so far. From extremely rutted river/creek beds, to hundreds of kms of sharp edge rocks to extremely soft sand.

Nathanial did very well driving the F250 and completed the Canning with never being bogged or having to attempt a dune more than once.  Every 4WD we met had been bogged at least once and some had taken up to 10 attempted to cross one dune.

After a mad dash from Wiluna we arrived safely at Margaret River on Sunday. What a contrast to Wiluna….and what a delightful place for some well-earned RnR. Despite the cool weather and intermittent rain we have enjoyed the time off the motorbikes.

Monday was spent exploring a State Park and a limestone cave. Yesterday we went to lunch ( very long and wine-fuelled) at the Leeuwin Estate restaurant on the outskirts of town. In a beautiful setting within the vinyard the restatuant was a welcome change to the camping tucker to which we have become accustomed. Afterwards, at the bar, we were fortunate enough to meet  the eminent artist John Olsen, who has designed the labels for the Leeuwin Estate Art range. And what a delightful company he was, kindly agreeing to sign a dozen bottles of Chardonnay which we will auction for our Youth off the Streets charity. Tricia Horgan, MD of Leeuwin Estate was also a warm and generous hostess, kindly donating the dozen bottles of wine which were duly signed by John Olsen….see

http://www.galeriaaniela.com.au/John%20Olsen.htm

We set out from Halls Creek 14 days ago to traverse the most remote – and perhaps most difficult 4 wheel drive tracks in Australia. And what an amazing trip it was through 2000 sand dunes, numerous salt pans and dry creek beds, over massive beds of ferocious rocks and much of the time being  belted by tree branches encroaching over the track.

Sublime sunrises and sunsets; an endless galaxy of stars and an endless horizon. Also thrills and spills and aches and pains as we fought our way thru mercurial sand on 13 blistering hot days.

The CSR was surveyed 100 years ago – and 50  wells constructed – to provide an almost 2000 km route thru the Gibson and Great Sandy Deserts for mobs of cattle to be sent to the glodfields in the south of WA. Now it is a challenge for crazies like me.

See

http://www.exploroz.com/TrekNotes/WDeserts/Canning_Stock_Route.aspx

We are in Kununurra and heading for the Canning Stock Route tomorrow. The riding in the Kimberleys has been a mixture rocky roads, water crossing, big corrugations, sand and dust.  The landscape is truly breathtaking, stunning mountain ranges, dramatic gorges, cascading waterfall, exquisite beaches and swimming holes.

The rocky roads have also taken their toll with 3 flat tyres in the support vehicle in 3 days, 2 destroyed rims, busted shocks and brackets.  On the bike, I had my first flat tyre around a long sweeping corrugated corner which nearly caused a big off.

We have also had a shift change in Kununurra with Hein and the boys heading home, and Todd & Nathaniel joining for the remainder of the trip. We thank Hein, Rudi and Andy for their kind contributions and efforts.

Leaving Derby the real riding experience begins on the infamous Gibb River Road. And what an experience…..along its 650 km. Creek and river crossings, gorges and vast vistas of mountain ridges of shattered limestone coloured by blue/green algae and rust-red leaching. Heaps of boab trees, with their huge trunks and  madly tangled branches. Birds of all descriptions.

Our first overnight stop brings us to Windjana  Gorge and the Richenda River. There are hundreds of fresh-water crocs lining the banks of the river, quite oblivious to us  strolling metres from them. Apparently they are not aggressive to humans but no-one is taking a dip. Its the dry season now and very hot and the river is low and stagnant in places but a quick glance higher up the banks show evidence of past flooding during the wet seasons, with logs and other detritus caught in the ajoining trees.

We spend most of the afternoon at Tunnel Creek, where the Aboriginal bushranger/freedom fighter, Jandamarra, was executed by the WA Police in the 1890’s

This is a special and beautiful place with the limestone cliffs towering above the river.  Vast flocks of corellas squark  loudly as they  wing overhead into a red-hot sunset.

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Its been a while between blogs as most of the places we’ve been riding in the Kimberleys have had no internet access.

After a few splendid days in Broome (the last night spent at the wonderful Cable Beach Club) we headed to Cape Leveque,spending 2 nights right on the beach at Middle Lagoon. Same old huge red sunsets over the vast blue sea: same old platters of freshly caught fish for dinner: same old sandy tracks to negotiate on the bike. Beach swimming was still an issue with the  ever-threatening presence (or potential presence) of salties.

Met a great couple from Shepperton who took the guys fishing.Then got totalled with them in the  evening on a few bottles of red, which they also supplied! Apart from the tremendous fun we are having riding, the real joy of the trip has been to meet so many wonderful Australians at various camping grounds. Being a chatty kind of  bloke I’ve really enjoyed shooting the breeze with all  sorts of people from all parts of this amazing country. Reckon I’ll be stalking camping grounds across Oz after the fun I’ve been having on this trip.

We found a ‘short-cut’ track thru a cattle property over to Derby and I almost arsed off the bike at a creek crossing. A close call on a dodgy 150 Km soft-sand track.

Derby prooved to be a dull, dreary little town, but the hot showers and laundry facility at the camping ground made up for the town’s deficiencies.

Spending a few days in the lovely WA town of Broome. Fixing the motorbikes as well as the  support truck before we venture up the Kimberly coast and then onto the Canning Stock Route.

Broome is proving to be a super-friendly town and we are getting to know our neighbours at the caravan park: Caravan Park living is a new lifestyle for me and is proving to be agreeable for the short periods that we spend in them. One drawback has been the absence of camp-fires, which we enjoyed when we were bush-camping. The hot showers, pools and laundry facilities more than compensate……but still there is something missing!

I spent a lovely evening at dinner with a terrific couple….Russell and Nick last night at the Cable Beach Club.We reminisceed about the old days clubbing in both Melbourne and Sydney……and  Sue Heenan, our friend in common, who introduced us. Sydney and Melbourne  seem like a world away from laid back Broome

We have now replaced worn tyres, tightened chains, replaced lost bolts on the bikes and now await Paula’s arrival tonight and Rob’s tomorrow night, with my new ipod. The guys have been enjoying music while they ride and I’ve finally decided to join them….quite a leap of faith in technology: my first ipod!

We have now crossed 6 deserts recently including Simpson Desert, Central Desert (Around Alice Springs) and Tanami Desert.  The Simpson Desert has been by far the most challenging to date but what shock me what how beautiful it is.

We are in Broome and are all tried from riding so we are looking forward to some R&R.  Besides the beach we will need to make some repairs to the F250 and complete a tyre change on the bikes.

Over the past few days we have been riding the Tanami Track, across the Tanami Desert. Long desert tracks of red sand and tricky waterholes to negotiate. The vegetation is monotonous as is the riding. Its possible to turn a corner and see the track extend as far as the horizon….so you just hold the throttle open and go like the clappers. its pretty tiring doing up to 600km a day, but the old bod is handling it. Love travelling at 140 km per hour on the dirt roads. Chased a wild camel the other day and rode alongside it for about 50 metres until it ran off into the desert Also almost collided with 4  horses/brumby’s crossing the track. They were jet-black, with beautiful glossy coats and looked magical as they kicked up their heels and smashed thru the bush alongside the track.

We are now out of the desert region and in the verdant rolling landscape of the Kimberleys. Spent our first night at Fitzroy Crossing, beside the enormously wide Fitzroy River, now mostly empty of waterHaving a ball in fact, enjoying this amazing country. Now in the Kimberleys with all the grey gonads in their caravans. Sooooo beautiful here.Morgdog  (new nickname by Andy – aka Baddog)
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After a rest day and a good cleanup (ourselves,clothes,bikes and truck) in Alice, I have had time to sit and savour my special memories of the Simpson Crossing. After an uneventful first 120km, which included the deviation around the flooded Eyre Creek, we were getting into the first pans which had by now turned into a clay pit, fun if you are a kid, but definyely not if you are trying to get a fully laden vehicle(not even mentioning a Ford F250) through or around them. Each pan created it’s own challenges – like a military operation, send out the scouts either side looking for a safe way around. or just give it a go and run straight through? Being a single vehicle with bikes , there was no second vehicle to snatch us out should we come unstuck. or rather stuck – this added a certain intensity to decision making!! At approximately 150km we had skirted Poeppel Corner pan. the track ran close to the pan. the wider track left the inside wheel line and there we were. bogged. With a bit of advice from the bike, Rudi got the vehicle out. Further along the off-camber started and very close to the pan – the weight high and to the rear pushed the tail down to the pan and we were bogged good and solid!! Out the first time with a fair amount of digging and we were bogged again – this time going nowhere, After digging for a while the others returned and eventually we were able to successfully bury the spare and winch ourselves out (this was only after we had unloaded the roof and bike off the back ). We camped right there – buggered !! Andy built the most fantastic fire pit in the dune, and Rudi cooked another stellar meal. A beautiful night, a great fire and a good sleep. The following day we had a great ride, enjoying the dunes and the track, meeting great people along the way and savouring the wild flowers and birdlife along the way.  Then one little mud patch took us back to square one!! Two days and a night of digging, puzzling, stressing, more digging, laying branches, winching, and we were still going nowhere. Fortunately, traffic arrived on day 2 to share their knowledge and snatch us out. By this time Paul had practised a few more free dives and he suspected broken ribs and had to contact Dave at Mt. Dare for a cassevac. We camped another night and completed the crossing the following day. We arrived at Dalhousie hot water springs and jumped in, clothes and all – never has a  natural spring felt so good. After a swim and a setting sun. we finished the 330km ride for the day at Mt. Dare. A good feed and a bed had us rested for the final 320km via Fincke to Alice Springs. After Andy and me did a quick tube change for Morgan. we were ready to roll. BUT. more drama! The front shock absorbers and mounting bolts on both sides had failed and the shocks were hanging in mid air. Rudi. Andy and I . with Dave’s input. spent the day removing all. bending and fitting one good shock either side. We were not getting any support from the ARB dealer in Alice on the satphone(or when Rudi arrived in Alice) – a poor show. All ready the next morning we headed to Alice via Fincke and the Fincke Desert Race route in freezing conditions. One flat wheel (Andy) and a quick tyure change had us arriving in Alice after lunch. A great ride and bikes serviced by Race Motorcycles on Saturday had us sorted. Thanks to Woody for giving up his Saturday to do the bikes. Good on ya mate!!

Another day in Birdsville…..but freedom and escape  is nigh!  Andy and Rudi have made it onto the Birdsville Track, arriving at Mungerannie yesterday. Hopfully onto Birdsville today with food supplies and news from the outside world!

In the meantime I popped over to the B’ville school again yesterday and checked on the ‘homework’ I’d set for the kids. After a little coaxing Henry,Alicia,Shazzaray,Kiara and Brendon were able to identify all 10 deserts we are to traverse on our travels. The remaining student, Coen, was missing, only to be seen brazenly playing on the street in front of the pub, in defiance of the school authorities……Michael stood at the school gate fuming…but what could he do about such blatant truancy?

Birdsville is getting ready for the funeral for Nana Crombie, a 93 year old local from the local Wangkangurru clan. Michael Castrisos, the headmaster, advised me that she was the last of the indigenous people who came out of the desert to embrace western life. She was also an important repository of local indigenous culture. There were hoards of kids in town yesterday from outlying towns in preparation for the funeral, to be held next Friday. Yesterday, with all the kids running amok thru downtown B’ville was a  very noisy day indeed! Paul and I, seeking solace from the noisy madness,  walked to the local cemetary, to find some peace. The sad and  tired little cemetary, located on the  road to Big Red, told some interesting stories via some surprisingly well maintained headstones. And some effort had  been made to plant treees and bouganvillia to beautify the place.

Finished the day yesterday with another pleasant dinner with Cheryl, who has been so kind to us since Lyn and Kenny left for Darwin. Tony and I are still camped in their house and we remain hugely grateful for their hospitality since we were left stranded without our truck. Outback hospitality has been overwhelming, with Bronwyn & Peter from the roadhouse, Dave from the Information Centre, Dusty from the Bakery, John the bush poet and his delightful wife, Joy, Clayton & Lou from Pandi Pandi Station, Michael, the headmaster (still grappling with the ‘new-fangled technology’- the internet!!) and of course, Lyn & Kenny and Cheryl, all being so kind and supportive.

Michael kindly loaned me is book ‘Birdsville – My year in the back of Beyond’ by Evan McHugh; very worthwhile reading for anone contemplating a trip to this wonderful outback town, brimming with warm-hearted characters……

This afternoon, when the truck returns, we plan to load it up for the desert crossing. Fingers crossed there is no more rain today or overnight.

We are in Birdsville waiting for our support vehicle to return after getting its gear-box replaced.  With some recent heavy rain many of the roads are closed and the vehicle is trapped in Maree.  To date we have crossed the Strzelecki, Tirari and Sturt Stony Deserts. The riding has not been technically challenging but has been a mixture of dry dusty tracks, to extremely rocky sections through the Sturt Stoney Desert to very windy conditions in the Strzelecki Deserts where it felt like we where riding on a 45 degree angle.

Woke to clear skies and a chill in the air. Town quiet with very little traffic and flights in/out. All roads to Birdsville closed – from North, South, East and West. Might be a few days before we see Rudi and Andy with the truck, as they are stuck in Marree, 510km down the Birdsville Track, and all roads around Marree also closed. Very limited comms with them !! Is patience elastic ??

Spent a wonderful day yesterday at Pandi Pandi Station attempting to muster cattle. Thanks to Clayton & Lou, we were able to show how green we were at conquering this unforgiving terrain on the motorbikes.

We managed to get all but 2 of the cattle into the adjoining paddock after bringing our bikes across the swollen Diamantina Creek on an ancient punt. Only Tony managed the day without falling off  his bike. I levitated once or twice before hitting the hard, red ground.

I spend a very enjoyable few hours at the Birdsville State School today showing the kids our www.bigbore website as well as www.youthoffthestreets site. They all registered to add to the  site blog. Great kids, they  showed me their skills at the digeridoo and on the computer keyboard. I set them homework tonight: to name all the deserts we plan to traverse on our bike trip.

The kids were also keen to see the www.centralstation.com.au web-site, and promised to give me some samples of them playing the didgeridoo (boys) and sticks (girls) which will be incorporated into our ‘official music theme.

Pissing down with rain at Birdsville – subsequently all the roads in and out are closed…..another day, another night in Birdsville!

Rose to another magnificent sunrise. However, more cloudy skies with the occasional drops of rain. Becoming quite ominous towards mid day. Rumours of the Birdsville Track closed because of rain – no comms with Rudi and Andy supposedly on the way up here via the Birdsville Track. We are really being thrown a succession of curve balls in getting out of Birdsville. Although the locals have been fantastic and welcomed us in as one of them, the feet are itching, and it is time to move on! Had a great night at the pub chatting to Rob, a geologist from Bathhurst, that has a few dirt bikes in the shed and has done multiple Simpson crossings. Great time chatting about all the old bikes, CR500’s YZ500’s and Maico 490’s – one thing in common – speed !! Spent the morning doing washing, airfilters and changed the sprockets on the 400EXC – worn thin by wrong tyre choice. Now just waiting for the truck to reach town – holding thumbs. Cheers till later.

At first light on Sunday morning with Paul and I decided to ride the 100km to Eyre Creek and check out the options to cross the flooded creek. A perfect morning, not too cold, no other vehicles on the track and only the flight of wild cockatoos to accompany us around the flooded areas to the dunes. A good ride across the stretch of dunes made Paul alot more comfortable after lsitening to all the “war” stories about the difficulty of the ride. At Eyre Creek we first inspected the unofficial crossing of a slippery clay entry to the river. I agreed to walk the creek, and as I stripped off, Paul got the camera ready, hoping that I would dissapear under water and he could catch all on camera. No problems walking across, so I rode through the thigh deep crossing and back. Shortly after a group of 4×4’s arrived, and although first suspect of our directions, were only too happy to let us guide them past the lonely stick in the middle of the flow that indicated the shallowest part. Greg soon became our newest best friend after the crossing successfully in his Hilux. After sighting this crossing, we had the greatest ride through fields of wild flowers and birdlife to the official crossing – 35 km further upstream.Fantastic how nature can be so gratefull for a few drops of rain, and present all with such a show of beauty. Great riding, just cruising from corner to corner at 80km/h on the 2 spoor track. An uneventful crossing on the rocky bottom by Paul this time, revving his DR as a crew of ladies watched and waited for him to become a submarine !! Back to Big Red to watch the 4×4 crews fulfill lifelong dreams of conquering “Big Red” folowed by cruisy ride home around the flooded areas. By now Paul was well and truly done for the day, but still managed a smile, qouting “I don’t think I have ever been that tired before”. 210km of desert fun for another eventful day.

She hadn’t been running clean since we left on our 5 day trip, so on Saturday Paul and I pulled her to bits – cleaned the tank and all filters in the tank, the carbie was taken apart and every piece cleaned. She still wouldn’t go. Last thought was to replace the plugs with the original ones that I had fortunately kept, and woohoo, she went like a newbie !! Good for me, cause I was starting to have thoughts of seeing my bike on the back of the truck. All good though, and enough reason for me to buy “Engineer Paul” a bitterly cold one at the pub.

Today, Monday, we were to help Morgan’s mates at Pandi Pandi Station do a bit of a cattle round-up. What a fantastic station of 1.6million acres – airstrip and the lot – my mind drifted back to the Game Ranch in the Kalahari as I rode down to the homestead in the crisp morning air. The looks on the faces of the young jackaroos said it all as we arrived – we need to work and now also play “babysitters” to this motly bunch on 650cc trail bikes? they had 250cc bikes. We started off by crossing the creek on a tinny, one bike and rider at a time. Looked a bit shaky, and Tony decided against taking his “ride and joy” across the creek. He negotiated the use of the station XR400 – beauty – it was a kickstart only, and his face said it all – where’s the magic button? We cruised the gullies and dry creeks, Morgan practising the aerial roll (minus his bike) and eventually we found a few scraggly cattle and one uncomfortable bull! What started out as a reasonably organised muster, turned into mayhem when a few beasts decided they had had enough of these machines. It then started to resemble a team of 7yr olds chasing the footy around in their first match – dust and mayhem. Later Paul and myself rode back via the Inside Track between Innaminka and Birdsville. A great 2 spoor track through the wild flowers next to 50ft dunes. Tony and Morgan crossed the creek on the tinny again to fetch the 690. A great day had by all. The boys were picking up the truck late this arvo, and should put in a few hours before stopping for the night. We should see them by Tuesday night.

Tony and  I headed out to Pandi Pandi Station today (over 100,000 ha) to assist the Manager, Clayton Oldfield with mustering cattle. However we ended up helping Clayton and his wife Lou (who pilots the local plane/aerial sightseeing service) cut and pack a freshly slaughtered cattle beast. Mustering operation postponed to 0800 tomorrow morning.

Caught up with Michael Castrisos, headmaster of the Birdsville School: he was a previous owner of my Amamoor beef property on the Sunshine Coast and was keen to get an update on his old property. Crazy coincidence….hes a great guy, trying his very best to give the indigenous kids at the school a good start in life.

Tony is keen to hit Big Red again before dinner…so off on the bikes again. Beaut day in B’ville – a good riding day.

Not in the last 30 years has the outback region of Queensland flooded as it has over the last 60 days. Approximately a week ago the watrers of Eyre Creek and Coopers Creek started flowing into Lake Eyre and the greater Eyre Basin. On only a handful of occasions has the ferry over Coopers Creek been used to allow traffic to move up and down the Birdsville Track – and we are here to experience it all – fantastic and feel very priveleged. John Major, the famous bush poet, has been in the campsite the last week or so, and his historcal recollections of drought in the area seem surreal when you see all the water. This fine gentleman has a special gift for relating the stories and emotions of a time gone by – being able to recite over 200 “poems off by heart” – very special !! We loaded the 5 bikes and our new addition, Paul, joined us down the Birdsville Track to Mungerannie Pub and Hotel, where we met a fantastic couple, Phil and Pam, the proprieters of the Hotel. Spent a great evening there, with Rudi and Andy almost becoming part of the staff. Next morning on to Coopers Creek where we crossed on the ferry. Yachts were being put in the water and the Lake Eyre Yacht Club were having a regatta – not often that it happens I’m sure. 300km further down the track Rudi’s eyes almost popped out at the sight of the “Italian” working at the Marree local store ! On to Lyndhurst, and after a hostile reception(for no particlar reason) by the Lyndhurst Hotel and Campsite(apparently the locals don’t even support them), we left to stay with Elaine at the Lyndhurst BP Roadhouse. Great T-bone and other meals, good brekkie and camping and rooms to stay. We stayed in the “Palace”, two rooms and Satellite TV with all channels – a must stay for bikers with parking under roof for bikes!! The next morning, loaded with fuel for 480km, sleeping gear and water and emergency rations, we hit the dirt for 480km to Innaminka (no fuel or stores inbetween).Bikes ran well, averaging 15km/l with shorter desert gearing. Rudi and Andy by now needed plastic surgery sitting on the 400/450 EXC’s seats. I smiled from my well padded armchair on the DR650 – old bull vs young bull. By now there were some serious negotiations taking place between the boys and Tony/Morgan to relieve them of their airhawk seats. Successfully concluded, smiles appeared on both the boys seen and unseen faces!! Innaminka was a welcome reprieve – cold beer and a pub meal, a game of pool and watching Queensland win another State of Origin game all went down well. The next morning loaded with almost $5 cans of baked beans and petrol at $1.75 a litre, we headed through some of the most beautifully green country on the 410km back to Birdsville. The road had been closed after more rain in Birdsville, but we were fortunate to get through and head straight for the bakery and a feed of curried camel pie for the grumbling stomachs !! A great ride and 1500 odd km later, a hot shower and fish and chips for dinner was closely followed by a chilly night in the camp cots. This morning at 5am Rudi and Andy left to fetch the truck and fresh supplies in Adelaide(1200km away). We hope to see them back on Tuesday to continue through the Simpson Desert for Mount Dare and Alice Springs. Till next time, see ya all.

Thank you to Matthew Phillpot from Barkbusters and others for your generous donations to the Charity. Good on ya !!

Having fun with this computor – 3rd attempt at uploading to blog now. Adding to my “Birdsville Experiences” after being bitten by Barnsey’s guard dog, a Huntsman Spider the size of my palm, yesterday, as I was checking the size of the tyres he had ordered for us. At least it provided him with a laugh. My messages will now be short and sweet, so as not to spend time typing and loose it all into the never never !!

2 degrees this morning……but after a few rums I slept blissfully. Said goodbye to Lyndie, Noel and girls today

Spent the day unpacking the truck in preparation for it’s transport to Adelaide. Rudi and Andy eventually had enough and loaded the 400 and 450 with sleeping bags and a tin of food each to head out for a chilly night on Big Red ! waiting for their return – sure that they experienced the most magnificent sunset and sunrise. Truck still waiting to be loaded this morning – bush time !! We will then head off down the Birdsville track to cross the ferry over Coopers Creek (first time in 20yrs that it is being used) and see the water flowing into Lake Eyre. Will then backtrack up through Innaminka back to Birdsville. Hopefully we will then have the truck sorted and back in Birdsville to cross the Simpson to Alice Springs. See ya till next time.

Having a few days in Birdsville while the support  truck (F250) is getting fixed. Headed out  to Big Red yesterday – up and over. Fantastic ride, with loads of birdlife around the billabongs….and the desert is awash with yellow and blue flowering plants…..so beautiful. Meeting lots of characters along the way: Lyn at the Birdsville Camping Ground, Adrian at  the bakery and our fellow campers, Lyndie, Noel, and their delightful daughters, Adelaide and April (who have been stalking Rudi & Andy). Loads of laughs around their camp-fire last night, after a wonderful dinner cooked by Noel. Also spent  an hour or so listening to John Major, an accomplished bush poet.

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A big start to the Simpson crossing! About 60km in the F 250’s gear box blew up. This then involved organising a truck to tow us out of the Simpson Desert over 50 metre high sand dunes.  It took all day to cover 60 kms.

Now it may sound simple just get a new gear box and put it in F250.  Well its not possible to complete these repairs in Birdsville as the parts & the equipment is not available.  This has lead us to organising 2nd truck to take the F250 to Adelaide for repairs.

So this has delayed our Simspon Desert crossing so whlist we are waiting for our F250 we have decided to do the Strzelecki and Birdsville Tracks which we had orginally plaaned to do at the end of the trip.

Great introduction to Central Australia last night at the Birdsville Hotel. A few beers and dinner in front of the fire where we met a couple of great guys from Margaret River who are hopping around Australia in their 2 seater plane. Alan & Fred invited us to visit when we get to Margaret River…….got Andee very excited as Fred is a crazy surfer and has a couple of spare boards. Good blokes – will definitely catch up with them again.

Great sleep-in at the very comfortable and hospitable Birdsville Hotel but a cold start to the day: temp 2 degrees. Warm compared to what we expect over the next couple of weeks. Rain forecast for Alice Springs…..will make the red clay very greasy for riding.

Loading the bikes and Morgan turns up with his brand new Suzuki and the clutch has gone…rush it into Sunstate Motorcycles and they say it is not covered under warranty…..terrible…he should consider another dealer. We suspect that the wrong oil could have been used in it’s first service.

Very busy past few days getting the vehicle and the bikes ready for the trip. Already to go tomorrow!